Converting and Painting Miniatures

[quindia]

I've received lots of questions on conversion and painting techniques both on this board and in direct e-mails. Sometimes it's hard to put the process into words, so...

Quindia Productions presents the Horrendous Heathen!



Ok, so right now it's just the Hulk, but this model is base for the character my players have to fight in this weekend's game. Heathen is a force of nature, centuries old, that wanders about wreaking havoc in a very Hulk-like fasion. He (it?) was created by Doom (from this board, not the famous Dr.) and I'll post his stats on my site (after thrashing my players with him this weekend).

Anyway, this is the start of series of posts showing the model at different stages with comments on each step. After this model is finished, I'll add the whole process to my website. Stay tuned...

[Evil Toki]

this should be cool, very cool

[quindia]

Ok, this conversion is actually a simple one. Heathen bears more resemblance to Pitt than the Hulk, so I needed to add lots more hair. This was done using "green stuff" - a two part modeling putty. I applied the putty in small, flat sections and applied texture to each section with a sculptor's tool. Hair is one of the easiest things to sculpt, so it's a good first project to attempt. I also added hair to the back of the forearms.

Heathen is not green either, but we'll take care of that next...

[Tumbler]

Is there a place on line that sells this putty? I can't find any at my FLGS or modeling stores.

[quindia]

Ta-da! He's no longer green. I use a matt black spray paint I picked up at the hardware store, but you could easily apply the undercoat with a brush. With the spray paint, it's best to apply two light coats than one heavy one until you get the hang of it. Hold the spray can 10 to 12 inchesaway from the model and move the spray slowly back and forth.

[quindia]

Is there a place on line that sells this putty? I can't find any at my FLGS or modeling stores.

Games Workshop sells it, although they offer "grey stuff". It's the same thing basically, but instead of the two parts being yellow and blue, they are blue and white:

http://www.gamesworkshop.com/storefront ... &imgsize=b

I'm sure there are tons of online model shops that sell versions of it too. I'll post more links if I find a couple.

[quindia]

Now we can start painting. Here is Heathen with just the basic color scheme. I start with the darkest tones for each section. I'm going to use a three-shade technique - basically a dark, medium, and light tone of each color. If this were a showcase model, I would use five to seven tone transistions, but my goal is to get this bad guy ready for the game table, so three steps will give plenty of detail and contrast.

The main thing to concentrate on at this stage is getting all of the base tones applied neatly. If you have trouble "staying in the lines" don't sweat it. If you get blue paint on the skin area, you can always go back with the flesh tone and tidy it up. It may take two coats of paint to get a good, clean color. I try to leave a thin line of black showing between the colors for extra contrast (where the torn shirt meets the skin, etc).

I use Wargames Foundry paints, but Citadel and Vallejo paints work great too. There a lots of other companies but these are the only brands I have extensive experience with. Wargames Foundry produces their range with the three-step method in mind so there is little mixing of paints neccessary.

[Squire]

This is great stuff, Quindia... keep 'em comin'!!

[Telik]

That's my brother... imagine what kind of pressure that puts on somebody.
But oh how sweet it is to be included in all of his campaigns. Dude we're gonna mop the floor with that big hairy monster.

Heathen sounds like fat bastard from Austin Powers, hahaha

[quindia]

Here's the mid-tones. Make sure to leave the darkest tone showing in the recesses. Now's when we start to define the muscles, folds in the clothes, etc. This step probably takes the longest.

This angle doesn't really show the model off at it's best either. I'll show a couple of other views of the finished model.

[quindia]

Two views of our nearly completed model. The final highlights really bring out the details in the model. Again, you need to leave plenty of the mid-tone showing to get a smooth transition from light to dark. Better results could be achieved by blending each layer, but as I said in the outset, I want to get this dude on the game table so this is the quickest approach that still yields good results.

Only one more step to go... the finishing touches!

[Kenpo Wolf]

Great work but I have one question; How do you remove the character from the HeroClix base?

[mistergone]

What I can't believe is how you leave the lines between features. How do you do that? When I paint, paint goes all over, and the base lines get coevered. Do you use an ink?

[quindia]

Great work but I have one question; How do you remove the character from the HeroClix base?

Very carefully!

Seriously, I use various sharp implements. You need to protect the surface you're working on. I use a cutting mat available from most hobby/art/model shops. I've used an x-acto knife (VERY, VERY CAREFUL), hobby saw, clippers (these work best on models on flying bases... the glue is different from that used on the normal bases and is difficult to cut through... the clippers just "pop" them free), or sometimes I just pry them free (only large or bulky models like the Thing or Professor X... spindly legs break).

[quindia]

What I can't believe is how you leave the lines between features. How do you do that? When I paint, paint goes all over, and the base lines get coevered. Do you use an ink?

Patients and practice!

I sometimes use inks, but not on these models. It's actually easier to start dark and paint the highlights on. Try this: after painting the dark base tone, start the mid tone in the center of the shape/area and slowly work it out. Just stop before you reach the deepest folds/muscles/etc.

Not a very satisfactory answer. Weilding a brush just takes practice. Just keep at it and don't get discouraged!

The final photo is coming up...

[quindia]

Finished! Basically, I added a little color to the lower lip, an evil yellow highlight to the eyes, and finished off the base. I tried a fine texture and concrete color on an earlier model and just didn't like it. The brown goes well in urban and rural settings (if you use terrain in your games) and it's how the majority of my wargame models are painted these days.

Now he's ready to smash my players' heroes. HEATHEN SMASH!!!!!

Naw, that's been taken. Anyway, hopefully this has shed a little more light on the process. I might do another one of these in the future... I have all of the parts to make the Pugilist...

[mistergone]

Gee, Mick Jagger sure is buff and hairy anymore these days.

Yeah, I figured as much on the lines. The curse of the totally unartistic is that the befuddling response is always "practice". As for patients... well, my license to operate on actual humans was revoked... oh... oh wait... you mean "patience". Heh, yeah... I could use some of that lying around.

Great work. I'd really like to see next a complete hack-up with parts from many figures combined into one.

On a semi-related note, I've noticed in my local area, Heroclix single figures have become very scarce. This alarms me, because not only is my collection of a basic set far from complete, but this also cuts down on figures for hacking up and reworking. Grrr...

[quindia]

Great work. I'd really like to see next a complete hack-up with parts from many figures combined into one.

Maybe I'll try the Pugilist next then. He'll be made from several different models and require minor sculpting work. I've got a few models to turn out for my campaign first, but I'll give it a try in a week or two...

[Hollywood]

Just a sample [yes, its not for M&M...] to show that conversions can be done by anyone. Note, that it needs a better paintjob, but its also not finished either and was a rush job so it could be used in a battle.



Basically, this was a fairly standard WH40k human figure that had green-stuff applied to it and smoothed out into a robe. The "chainsaw" is basically two "chainswords" glued together with some bits of other weapons for the various other pieces. Took about an hour to convert the model.

[Doom]

Excellent job on Heathen my friend, wish I could say I was looking forward to fighting him this weekend. I do feel if Legion uses teamwork we can at least keep him from destroying Hampton Roads! BTW Hollywood good job on your conversion,all of us do not have Quins inborn talent so it's good idea to show everyone here that they can give it a shot.

[Hollywood]

BTW Hollywood good job on your conversion,all of us do not have Quins inborn talent so it's good idea to show everyone here that they can give it a shot.

Thanks and yeah, I did want to show that anyone can do it and that you don't always have to reach Quin's level to have an enjoyable figure to play with so others shouldn't feel discouraged from trying!

[quindia]

Thanks and yeah, I did want to show that anyone can do it and that you don't always have to reach Quin's level to have an enjoyable figure to play with so others shouldn't feel discouraged from trying!

That's what I've been saying! Everyone should give it a try. I put this step by step thing up to take some of the mystery out of it. The rest is just practice!

[quindia]

Heathen's stats are now on the website... click the website link below, scroll down and find his photo, and click to download the PDF (270k or thereabouts)...

[Nahualt]

okay Quindia I'm going to play a Marshall Law type character..so do you think it will be easy to pull off a Marshall Law conversion from the gotham policeman?

[quindia]

I'm afraid I'm more of a Marvel Silver Age fan. I have no idea who Marshall Law is (maybe I'll recognize him when I see him). Give me a link or something to go on and I'll let you know more...